In 2015 we sat down and converted the racecar to have more brake options and better performance.

Parts List:

Rear Axle from a disk brake car
-Why? The brake mounting setup is different, and calipers will not just “bolt on” to the drum rear beam, unless you go thru John Powell and buy his adapter brackets.
ABS Block & Proportioning Valve from 2009 Car with disk brakes (RPO Code JL9) (Morad Auto on ebay usually has a bunch in stock)
-Why? Because the front/rear brake bias is different between  drum and disk setups.
E-Brake Cables from Disk Brake Car
-Why? Lengths are different, as were the ends for us
Might need to make 1-2 new brake Hard lines per side depending on what you buy for parts. Each rear line can be made with a 12″ section of straight tube. Just tell them you need M10x 1.00 threads on the fittings.
2x Rear Calipers (Each side is a different PN  they are not universal)
New Pads (Shape 1033)
Rotors (If you going from a 4 lug car to a LSJ setup, you can either convert your car to 5 lug, or we just had a machine shop redrill LSJ rear rotors to a 4×100 pattern.  Wasn’t that expensive)
2 Quarts Brake Fluid (DOT4)  You will lose a fair amount, and you will need some while bleeding the brakes in.

Torque Values:

3x Subframe to unibody: 66ft/lbs + 45 degrees
Upper Shock: 66 ft lbs
Lower Shock: 83 ft/lbs
All Brake hard lines: Hand tight- cant find a spec value. Make sure threads are clean before bolting together. (Or you will have a bad time)
Caliper bracket to Subframe: 75 ft/lbs (may be hard to do)

REMEMBER!

When bleeding brakes, RR,LR,RF,LF. Always start farthest away from the Master Cylinder and work in, and don’t run out of fluid!